cognitas

Black Smoke [Eau de Parfum]

$225.00
Description

A deep, introspective journey into the inner psyche. Black Smoke centers into self-reflection and the inner mind…through ingredients that come from nature. An intoxicating aroma grounded in rich textural woods: Sandalwood, Cedarwood, Patchouli and Vetiver.

FUNCTION

I Am

TOP NOTE

Carrot Seeds, Lemon

Mid Notes

Carnation

BASE NOTES

Sandalwood, Vetiver Haiti, Musk, Ambergris, Cedarwood, Vanilla Absolute, Patchouli

ALL INGREDIENTS

SD Alcohol 40-B (Alcohol Dent.), Fragrance/ Parfum, Water/Eau

The perfumer / pierre negrin

“I believe very strongly that the earth itself is the material, it is the true origin of our industry.”

Pierre Negrin

Pierre Négrin was born in Grasse, in the south of France, where both of his grandfathers were merchants of products and plants for the creation of fragrances. Visiting them as a child, he fondly remembers discovering “an Aladdin’s cave of scents; baskets crammed full with jasmine and sacks of roses.”

Pierre aspired at first to be a photographer. He speaks passionately of the work of Robert Capa and Henri Cartier Bresson of the Agence Magnum and of the landscapes of Ansel Adams. One summer, as a physics and chemistry student searching for an internship, a perfumer friend offered him a position in his workshop. It was there that Pierre experienced a whole new universe by which he was utterly seduced. “I suddenly realized that, instead of expressing myself with light, I could express myself through fragrance.”

Pierre Négrin did not learn perfumery in a specialized school but rather in fragrance laboratories.

In the early 90’s, he left France to work in Mexico, eventually moving to the USA. Later, in 2008, he joined the ranks of the accomplished perfumers at Firmenich’s New York Fine Fragrance Center.

For Pierre, the U.S. represents a certain ease and a relaxed atmosphere which he loves. The contrasts between the U.S. and France strike the perfect balance for his life. He adores Corsica and the south of France where he visits his family home in Callian several times a year, and speaks lovingly of his olfactive memories, all born there: the scent of cistus in the morning breeze, the smell of the sea, the freshness of eucalyptus mingling with the redolent perfume of its hot, coastal earth. He is particularly attached to these earthy notes. “I believe very strongly that the earth itself is the material, it is the true origin of our industry. It is always in my mind. Your head can be in the clouds – as long as your feet are on the ground!”

For Pierre, the definition of luxury is that which is rare and authentic – quality materials that are left to breathe free and unstifled. He endeavors to nurture these unique products, celebrating their rough and essential natures, using them wisely and deliberately. Pierre has a particular appreciation for notes that are “not too easy. Things like animal notes, for example; and warm, bitter or spicy notes…”

For his excellence in creative perfumery, Pierre was awarded the International Prize for Fragrance Creation by the French Society of Perfumers in 1990.

Pierre enjoys comparing his work to writing, admits to an undying admiration for Albert Camus, and has a special affection for Marcel Proust who “does me good”. He is also fascinated by images and by how his fragrances are perceived – how they sound. Pierre is convinced that, no matter what the subject matter, the creation of a masterpiece is all in the way its ingredients are interpreted – even the humblest ingredients can result in a work of art. Pierre is a discerning, refined and reserved man who is also an epicurean. He celebrates life’s small pleasures and is drawn to a life of discipline, cycling daily and practicing yoga regularly. He does not appreciate ostentation or excess, preferring what is simple and minimalistic. “I am natural; I don’t have anything to hide. No one is perfect. Hours of work are what make the difference,” he ponders philosophically.

It is clear that this perfumer’s talent is matched only by his wisdom.

Ingredient Story

Black Smoke in crafted with the most precious, rich and resinous ingredients: Sandalwood, Vetiver and Ambergris.

Sandalwood

Sandalwood is a scarce, valuable wood originating in India. Once used for building Hindu temples, its diffusive, attractive aroma provides exceptional trail. Sandalwood, regarded as a symbol of vitality, has solidified itself as one of perfumery’s most expensive raw materials. Known for is distinctively creamy fragrance, Sandalwood is said to awaken sensuality and align the body’s chakras.

Vetiver

Vetiver is a grass that is native to India but is also grown in Haiti, Indonesia and China. The oil is extracted from its roots and has a distinctive damp, woody scent reminiscent of pencil shavings and wet earth. Known as the “Oil of Tranquility” in India, Vetiver has been used for its soothing and healing properties since the 12thcentury. The ingredient is so well celebrated that is was, and still is, used as an offering to gods and idols during India rituals.

Ambergris

Ambergris was one of the most rare and expensive raw materials used in perfumery. It has long been a favorite perfume ingredient, though its source was a mystery for many years. The gray, waxy stone-like pebbles were found washed up on beaches, but it is now known that ambergris is a calculus produced by the Sperm Whale. Today, Ambrox and Ambranum are used as an alternative to Ambergris, mimicking its delicate, sweet, somewhat woody and extremely persistent fragrance.